I'm moving content from other posts to this thread. It had a bad name before (that I created) so hopefully this will help folks find this content more readily.
Here's my original post:
I’ve been collecting a list of things that are “undocumented” or hardly documented about the system that one day I had planned to share. Today’s the day.
• Use the loop side of the Velcro sparingly. We gave you plenty so that you could put some in several locations (on both sides of the L1, your keys, your mic stand, etc.) and you’ll find that the hook is quite aggressive. It only takes a small strip, say 1” x 2”, to hold the remote.
• The bags are a bit tight when you first get them. They will “relax” over time.
• When the top section of the L1 is in its bag, there is room in there for the remote (knobs away from the L1 is best).
• If your remote gets “thumped” and a knob is hard to turn, you can pull it off and re-insert the knob. What’s happening is the bottom of the knob is rubbing on the cover of the remote.
• Put a piece of tape (or several) on your remote and mark where you like your settings (much like people do with stomp boxes) so that if they get turned by accident, you’ve got a mark of where you left it last. I’ve also seen people put a little dot of white out for this. Just remember, you probably want something that will be removable in case you change your mind. Then again, there’s always black paint to fix any boo-boo’s.
• Put your cables in the PS1 bag’s “outer sleeve”.
• The fuse will fit nicely in a couple of the recesses on the PS1 panel door. Tape it in one of the larger rectangles on the “channel 1 and 2 side” of the door. Now it’s always with your PS1.
• If the PS1 panel door pops off, pop it back in. It is designed to pop out during a “stepped-on-it” event, and is readily reattached.
• The Bose® logo on the grill of the B1 can be rotated. If you’re like me, and use the B1’s on their side and stacked, it looks nice with the Bose® going horizontally. The trick to rotating them, I’ve found, is to grab the “B” and “E” (not the tails) and pull straight out, then twist.
• Saving the nice packaging foam when the system arrives with is a good idea. It can be used in a hard-shell case if you decide to go that route at some point in the future.
• The L1 is slightly loose in its fit in the PS1. This is intentional so that it has some compliance when it gets bumped. As such, it is less likely to tip when someone accidentally pushes on it.
• And lastly, though I don't recommend you try, the socket in the PS1 where the L1 is placed can hold, and drain, pint of liquid.
I hope you liked my “little known facts” read. Please feel free to add your own.
I nearly spewed my coffee while reading the first one on this thread. I put ALL my cables in this large old doctor-style kit bag I carry. All of the PAS cabling goes there, along with guitar and mic cabling, patch cables, you name.
Oh, and I got a bunch of velcro strips and loop up each cable individually before putting them back in the bag. Trust me, it is worth that little bit of effort to not have to go through a bag crammed full of snaking cables of all sizes and plugs. I have not settled on a place to put the PAS remote, however, and usually leave it connected to the remote cable and so it goes in the kit bag.
Hey now, it works. I put my B1 cables in there and have my mic and gutar cables in my back pack. Then again, stacking stuff on the PS1 is a pain with the cables in there.
I like the velcro idea and never remember to do it, until I'm winding cables afer a rehearsal or gig.
I hope you've learned a valuable lesson here ... never drink and read threads.
what a great link -- LOL I just ordered TWO (well, one to hold the remote and one to hold the drink!)
Add the SwirleyGig to the long list of wonderful attributes that make Lee the catch of the century.
Thanks, Steve, for starting this thread. I had a couple of "ah ha!" moments going through them.
Along the lines of marking remotes with settings, I have considered creating 'maps' of the remote, perhaps 4 to a page, where typical remote settings as well as presets for particular instruments or micing combinations can be recorded. Perhaps someone with the original Bose graphics might be able to CAD up a front view drawing of the remote we could use to keep suck records?
trumpet, flugelhorn, wind controllers
Yeah, I have thought about creating a "blank" drawing of the remote too, so I could keep track of settings for different configurations. 'Twould be cool indeed if Bose included some... maybe even make them with a peel-off sticky back so you can stick 'em on your PS1 or wherever.
Glad you guys are digging the SwirlyGig - we too thought it was a way cool find! Catch of the century, eh? Well then HOW COME I'M STILL SINGLE???
Wow - sorry all. My typing skills leave much to be desired. I meant "such records", not what I typed.
Please accept my apologies - I don't realize how much I rely on spell check!
trumpet, flugelhorn, wind controllers
Married to the music, I suspect. Certainly, dedicated to it. And the music can be pretty jealous of the boyfriends/girlfriends/spouses, etc.
(Another reason that shaving some time off of setup/teardown is a good thing! Bit more time for the significant others.)
Music can be jealous of the spouses... oh man... that's brilliant!
But you're right. I always figured I'd just marry somebody I was in a band with, and therefore not have that problem. Trouble is, both of my bandmates are married, and I don't want to leave my band. So hey, maybe we just need somebody else to join the band. Someone with his own PAS. Yeah, that's it.
[I copied this from another thread to this one]
Until such time as bags become available for the B1's, the Rubbermaid ROUGHNECK 18gal/68.1L Model 2215 scu 71691-16728 available at Wal-Mart for $3.00 is a perfect fit.
This may be obvious, but I'll share it anyway.
The easiest way to connect your stuff to the Power Stand is to put the L1 (speaker) in last. I know it's a bunch of fun to drop the PS1 on the floor, drop the L1 in place. However, try this once and you won't go back. Put the PS1 down, hook up the remote, B1, Power, instrument cables, mic cables, etc. as appropriate, then place the L1 into the power stand.
It minimizes the "pole dancing" that you'll have to do during hookup. Oh, and when disassembling, do it in reverse ... take the L1 out first.
Happy setup and tear down gang.
For marking any metal or plastic equipment:
I use a wax marker for marking fabric, usually white. It's very easy to see and comes off without worry.
In addition to all the money my Mom spent on piano lessons, this was another contribution from her.
Wow !!!! First the PAS idea and now a PAS set up/tear down breakthrough. Bose ingenuity at its finest I say.
Now I'm scared that you guys aren't telling us more things because you feel they are obvious. Please keep the "obvious"/not so obvious ideas coming. That was a great one !!!
That's the whole idea behind this thread ... state the "obvious". It's funny, because I usally think of these in the basement, driving to work, at the gig, etc. and remembering to write it down is sometimes tough.
I'll keep posting mine, if you folks keep posting your "obvious" solutions.
Hey Steve, here's a little something I've found useful. The top speaker section is a tight fit in the bag provided. At performances, I take along a phillips screwdriver. Simply take out the two screws on the bayonnet, reverse it, and put the screws back in. Now it fits easily in the bag.
|Powered by Social Strata|